Τετάρτη 20 Φεβρουαρίου 2013
Τετάρτη 6 Φεβρουαρίου 2013
Τρίτη 5 Φεβρουαρίου 2013
ντουμπλφάς (λόγια)
ένα ρούχο
δύο πλευρές
δύο φύλλα
οκτώ πιθανά σενάρια
Κατασκευάζοντας ουσιαστικά ένα υφασμάτινο σωλήνα, το ρούχο στην πλέον αφαιρετική του μορφή, που μπορεί να φορεθεί και από τις δύο πλευρές του, προσπαθήσαμε να εκφράσουμε ουσιαστικά την πεποίθηση ότι το ρούχο και το φύλλο δε δημιουργούν μια σχέση αμφίδρομη. Δεν είμαι αγόρι επειδή φοράω αγορίστικα, δεν είμαι κορίτσι επειδή φοράω κοριτσίστικα - αλλά ούτε και αλλάζω το φύλλο μου γυρνώντας απλά τα μέσα έξω. Ο ρουχισμός αν και είναι άρρηκτα συνδεδεμένος με έμφυλους ρόλους, αποτελεί απλά μια συνιστώσα τους, καθώς αυτοί δεν εξαντλούνται εκεί.
Η μια πλευρά είναι μαύρη, θα λέγαμε ουδέτερη. Μπορεί να φορεθεί σαν μια μακριά μπλούζα από έναν άντρα ή μια γυναίκα. Μπορεί επίσης να φορεθεί σαν φόρεμα από έναν άντρα ή μια γυναίκα. Η άλλη έχει ένα γραμμικό και πολύχρωμο μοτίβο. Φοριέται όπως και η προηγούμενη.
Όταν ο Η. φοράει οποιαδήποτε από τις δύο πλευρές σα φόρεμα, δείχνει λίγο αστείος, χωρίς να το θέλει. Μπορεί να φταίνε και τα μούσια του ή τα πατρόν που τον στενέυουν στην πλάτη. Όταν τα φοράει η Ε. είναι απλά κομψή.
Όταν η Ε. φοράει οποιαδήποτε από τις δύο πλευρές σα μπλούζα, είναι πάλι κομψή, χωρίς να το θέλει. Μπορεί να φταίει το σώμα της ή τα πατρόν που την κολακεύουν ότι και να βάλει. Όταν τα φοράει ο Η. του πέφτουν λίγο μακριά, και με την πολύχρωμη πλευρά κάτι φαίνεται να μη πηγαίνει καλά.
Παντώς δεν είναι το ρούχο που ευθύνεται για όλα αυτά. Είναι το τι ρούχα έχουμε συνηθίσει να βλέπουμε στο κάθε σώμα.
Σάββατο 2 Φεβρουαρίου 2013
θεωρητικό πλαίσιο
1. To start very generally: Camp is a certain mode of
aestheticism. It is one way of seeing the world as an aesthetic
phenomenon. That way, the way of Camp, is not in terms of beauty, but
in terms of the degree of artifice, of stylization.
9. As a taste in persons, Camp responds particularly to the markedly attenuated and to the strongly exaggerated. The androgyne is certainly one of the great images of Camp sensibility. Examples: the swooning, slim, sinuous figures of pre-Raphaelite painting and poetry; the thin, flowing, sexless bodies in Art Nouveau prints and posters, presented in relief on lamps and ashtrays; the haunting androgynous vacancy behind the perfect beauty of Greta Garbo. Here, Camp taste draws on a mostly unacknowledged truth of taste: the most refined form of sexual attractiveness (as well as the most refined form of sexual pleasure) consists in going against the grain of one's sex. What is most beautiful in virile men is something feminine; what is most beautiful in feminine women is something masculine. . . . Allied to the Camp taste for the androgynous is something that seems quite different but isn't: a relish for the exaggeration of sexual characteristics and personality mannerisms. For obvious reasons, the best examples that can be cited are movie stars. The corny flamboyant female-ness of Jayne Mansfield, Gina Lollobrigida, Jane Russell, Virginia Mayo; the exaggerated he-man-ness of Steve Reeves, Victor Mature. The great stylists of temperament and mannerism, like Bette Davis, Barbara Stanwyck, Tallulah Bankhead, Edwige Feuillière.
58. The ultimate Camp statement: it's good because it's awful . . . Of course, one can't always say that. Only under certain conditions, those which I've tried to sketch in these notes.
9. As a taste in persons, Camp responds particularly to the markedly attenuated and to the strongly exaggerated. The androgyne is certainly one of the great images of Camp sensibility. Examples: the swooning, slim, sinuous figures of pre-Raphaelite painting and poetry; the thin, flowing, sexless bodies in Art Nouveau prints and posters, presented in relief on lamps and ashtrays; the haunting androgynous vacancy behind the perfect beauty of Greta Garbo. Here, Camp taste draws on a mostly unacknowledged truth of taste: the most refined form of sexual attractiveness (as well as the most refined form of sexual pleasure) consists in going against the grain of one's sex. What is most beautiful in virile men is something feminine; what is most beautiful in feminine women is something masculine. . . . Allied to the Camp taste for the androgynous is something that seems quite different but isn't: a relish for the exaggeration of sexual characteristics and personality mannerisms. For obvious reasons, the best examples that can be cited are movie stars. The corny flamboyant female-ness of Jayne Mansfield, Gina Lollobrigida, Jane Russell, Virginia Mayo; the exaggerated he-man-ness of Steve Reeves, Victor Mature. The great stylists of temperament and mannerism, like Bette Davis, Barbara Stanwyck, Tallulah Bankhead, Edwige Feuillière.
58. The ultimate Camp statement: it's good because it's awful . . . Of course, one can't always say that. Only under certain conditions, those which I've tried to sketch in these notes.
από το Notes on "Camp" της Susan Sontag, 1964
Πέμπτη 31 Ιανουαρίου 2013
Όροι
Drag is used for any clothing carrying symbolic significance but usually referring to the clothing associated with one gender role when worn by a person of another gender. The origins of the word are debated, but 'Drag' has appeared in print as early as 1870. One suggested etymological root is 19th-century theatre slang, from the sensation of long skirts trailing on the floor.
"Drag queen" appeared in print in 1941.The verb is to "do drag." A folk etymology whose acronym basis reveals the late-20th-century bias, would make "drag" an abbreviation of "dressed as girl" in description of male transvestism. The opposite, "drab" for "dressed as boy," is unrecorded. Drag is practiced by people of all sexual orientations and gender identities.
The term en femme [ɑ̃ fam] is an anglicized adaption of a French phrase. It is used in the transgender and crossdressing community to describe the act of wearing feminine clothing or expressing a stereotypically feminine personality. The term is derived from the modern colloquial French phrase en tant que femme meaning "as a woman" and the anglicized adaption en femme literally translates as "in woman". Most crossdressers also use a femme (female) name while en femme.
Transvestism (also called transvestitism) is the practice of cross-dressing, which is wearing clothing traditionally associated with the opposite sex or gender. Transvestite refers to a person who cross-dresses; however, the word often has additional physical connotations.
Although the word transvestism was coined as late as the 1910s, the phenomenon is not new. It was referred to in the Hebrew Bible. The word has undergone several changes of meaning since it was first coined and is still used in a variety of senses.
Cross-dressing refers to the act of wearing clothing and other accoutrements commonly associated with the opposite sex within a particular society. Cross-dressing has been used for purposes of disguise, comfort and as a literary trope in modern times and throughout history.
Nearly every human society throughout history has expected distinctions to be made between males and females by the style, color, or type of clothing they are expected to wear, and likewise most societies have had a set of social norms, views, guidelines, or even laws defining what type of clothing is appropriate for each gender. It does not, however, necessarily indicate transgender identity since a person who cross-dresses does not always identify as being of a gender other than their assigned gender.
The term denotes an action or a behavior without attributing or proposing causes for that behavior. Some people automatically connect cross-dressing behavior to transgender identity or sexual, fetishist, and homosexual behavior, but the term cross-dressing itself does not imply any motives.
Transgender is a general term applied to a variety of individuals, behaviors, and groups involving tendencies to vary from culturally conventional gender roles.
Transgender is the state of one's gender identity (self-identification as woman, man, neither or both) not matching one's assigned sex (identification by others as male, female or intersex based on physical/genetic sex). Transgender does not imply any specific form of sexual orientation; transgender people may identify as heterosexual, homosexual, bisexual, pansexual, polysexual, or asexual; some may consider conventional sexual orientation labels inadequate or inapplicable to them. The precise definition for transgender remains in flux, but includes:
▪ "Of, relating to, or designating a person whose identity does not conform unambiguously to conventional notions of male or female gender roles, but combines or moves between these."
▪ "People who were assigned a sex, usually at birth and based on their genitals, but who feel that this is a false or incomplete description of themselves."
▪ "Non-identification with, or non-presentation as, the sex (and assumed gender) one was assigned at birth."
A transgender individual may have characteristics that are normally associated with a particular gender, identify elsewhere on the traditional gender continuum, or exist outside of it as other, agender, genderqueer, or third gender. Transgender people may also identify as bigender, or along several places on either the traditional transgender continuum, or the more encompassing continuums which have been developed in response to the significantly more detailed studies done in recent years.
A faux queen or bio queen is a female performance artist who adopts the style typical of male drag queens. A faux queen may be jocularly described as "a drag queen trapped in a woman's body", though few are female to male transsexuals. Other descriptions include "biologically-challenged" drag queen, "female female impersonator", or "female impersonator impersonator" Like traditional drag queens and drag kings, faux queens play with traditional gender roles and gender norms to educate and entertain. Faux queens can appear alongside drag kings at lesbian drag shows and are interchangeable with "regular" (biologically male) drag queens as emcees, performers, hostesses, and spokesmodels.
For some it can be a way to redefine postmodern feminism; faux queen Ms. Lucia Love stated, "Drag queens would be nowhere without women." For others it simply is about dressing up and having fun. In the words of faux queen Hoku Mama Swamp "I was born to love faggots, queens, and trannies, and have slowly been morphing into them since childhood."
"Drag queen" appeared in print in 1941.The verb is to "do drag." A folk etymology whose acronym basis reveals the late-20th-century bias, would make "drag" an abbreviation of "dressed as girl" in description of male transvestism. The opposite, "drab" for "dressed as boy," is unrecorded. Drag is practiced by people of all sexual orientations and gender identities.
The term en femme [ɑ̃ fam] is an anglicized adaption of a French phrase. It is used in the transgender and crossdressing community to describe the act of wearing feminine clothing or expressing a stereotypically feminine personality. The term is derived from the modern colloquial French phrase en tant que femme meaning "as a woman" and the anglicized adaption en femme literally translates as "in woman". Most crossdressers also use a femme (female) name while en femme.
Transvestism (also called transvestitism) is the practice of cross-dressing, which is wearing clothing traditionally associated with the opposite sex or gender. Transvestite refers to a person who cross-dresses; however, the word often has additional physical connotations.
Although the word transvestism was coined as late as the 1910s, the phenomenon is not new. It was referred to in the Hebrew Bible. The word has undergone several changes of meaning since it was first coined and is still used in a variety of senses.
Cross-dressing refers to the act of wearing clothing and other accoutrements commonly associated with the opposite sex within a particular society. Cross-dressing has been used for purposes of disguise, comfort and as a literary trope in modern times and throughout history.
Nearly every human society throughout history has expected distinctions to be made between males and females by the style, color, or type of clothing they are expected to wear, and likewise most societies have had a set of social norms, views, guidelines, or even laws defining what type of clothing is appropriate for each gender. It does not, however, necessarily indicate transgender identity since a person who cross-dresses does not always identify as being of a gender other than their assigned gender.
The term denotes an action or a behavior without attributing or proposing causes for that behavior. Some people automatically connect cross-dressing behavior to transgender identity or sexual, fetishist, and homosexual behavior, but the term cross-dressing itself does not imply any motives.
Transgender is a general term applied to a variety of individuals, behaviors, and groups involving tendencies to vary from culturally conventional gender roles.
Transgender is the state of one's gender identity (self-identification as woman, man, neither or both) not matching one's assigned sex (identification by others as male, female or intersex based on physical/genetic sex). Transgender does not imply any specific form of sexual orientation; transgender people may identify as heterosexual, homosexual, bisexual, pansexual, polysexual, or asexual; some may consider conventional sexual orientation labels inadequate or inapplicable to them. The precise definition for transgender remains in flux, but includes:
▪ "Of, relating to, or designating a person whose identity does not conform unambiguously to conventional notions of male or female gender roles, but combines or moves between these."
▪ "People who were assigned a sex, usually at birth and based on their genitals, but who feel that this is a false or incomplete description of themselves."
▪ "Non-identification with, or non-presentation as, the sex (and assumed gender) one was assigned at birth."
A transgender individual may have characteristics that are normally associated with a particular gender, identify elsewhere on the traditional gender continuum, or exist outside of it as other, agender, genderqueer, or third gender. Transgender people may also identify as bigender, or along several places on either the traditional transgender continuum, or the more encompassing continuums which have been developed in response to the significantly more detailed studies done in recent years.
A faux queen or bio queen is a female performance artist who adopts the style typical of male drag queens. A faux queen may be jocularly described as "a drag queen trapped in a woman's body", though few are female to male transsexuals. Other descriptions include "biologically-challenged" drag queen, "female female impersonator", or "female impersonator impersonator" Like traditional drag queens and drag kings, faux queens play with traditional gender roles and gender norms to educate and entertain. Faux queens can appear alongside drag kings at lesbian drag shows and are interchangeable with "regular" (biologically male) drag queens as emcees, performers, hostesses, and spokesmodels.
For some it can be a way to redefine postmodern feminism; faux queen Ms. Lucia Love stated, "Drag queens would be nowhere without women." For others it simply is about dressing up and having fun. In the words of faux queen Hoku Mama Swamp "I was born to love faggots, queens, and trannies, and have slowly been morphing into them since childhood."
από την βικιπαίδεια, την ελεύθερη εγκυκλοπαίδεια
Lawrence Anyways
τρέηλερ της ταινίας "Λώρενς για πάντα" του Ξαβιέ Ντολάν (Καναδάς/Γαλλία, 2012)
η πρώτη αφορμή για τον προβληματισμό μας πάνω στο ρούχο και το φύλο
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